Simone Rocha SS26: The Next Chapter of Girlhood
Written by Levi Kaye, edited by Charlotte Lewis
Simone Rocha has spent over 15 years quietly reshaping what femininity can look like on the runway. Recently, we’ve been on a journey of femininity and girlhood with Rocha’s collections. Last season, Rocha gave us a full-on nostalgia trip full of childhood memories, messy adolescence, that space between play and reality. This time, she’s clearly taking us on a journey through the early years of girlhood. Spring/Summer ‘26 felt like chapter two of her coming-of-age story. Think secret diaries and sleepovers, all filtered through Rocha's narrative-driven, subversive flair
The garments themselves have that Rocha flair I live for: layering, asymmetry and wild silhouettes in the best way. Hooped trapeze skirts, bustles, panniers for structure, all exaggerated shapes that moved with the model, sometimes wobbling, sometimes swaying down the runway. Rocha is a master at playing with the tension between structured and messy garments. You have these skirts that are wired, structured and quite rigid paired with visible undergarments or bralettes that don't sit quite right, or slipping off the shoulder. It really plays into this coming-of-age theme that celebrates the imperfections. She took this concept of a really beautiful silhouette and outfit, but teased it and messed it up a bit before it took the stage. Messy? Absolutely, but in a tasteful way that complements the story she’s telling us.
Even the menswear pieces leaned into this tension between structured and messy. Oversized jackets featured with asymmetrical details, formal shirts and vests with embellishments, organza or plastic overlays. Things that normally read masculine softened by frills, bows, and ruching.
A lot of the signature lace and pearls were everywhere, but so were gummy soles and Crocs, which, let’s be real, have no business being on a runway unless Simone Rocha puts them there. It's clear she really understands how to spin a whole storyline but still land it in pieces people actually want to wear.
Last point on the storyline, similar to her Autumn/Winter 2025 which played on the story of “The Tortoise and the Hare”, accessories played a big part in bringing this story to life. Pillows were clutched down the runway, acting almost as a comfort from childhood down the runway. Pearls, tiaras, and the odd chunky necklaces were elevated from costume-y props to something that really worked well in tying the concepts together. I especially loved the pastel floral pieces. On some looks they complimented the neutral colour palette very well, and on others they really stood out beautifully against black or grey. Every time, it just worked.
If there’s a critique, it’s that Rocha’s motif sometimes risks repetition. We know her tool kit — bows, pearls, lace, and even certain fabric choices. After 15 years in the game, she’s clearly found comfort in leaning into her signature language, but using it so smartly to tell this story. Rocha’s retelling of what girlhood feels like, messy, performative, tender, a little awkward, makes those familiar motifs feel fresh again. At this stage, each collection feels like she's guiding us through this next chapter from girlhood into womanhood, and I'm incredibly excited for whatever comes next in this story!